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The Birmingham Button Trade part 9
With regard to the button trade
in Germany, unfortunately it has not been in my power to obtain
particulars of an equally trustworthy character witch those
respecting the trade in France, but its importance cannot
well be overrated. If we except the porcelain buttons, the
quantity exported from Germany to other countries must far
exceed that from both England and France together, although
in value the comparison might per haps be the other way, as
the Germans vied in cheapness, especially in the production
of fancy goods, where some taste is required in the imitation
of more expensive articles. Besides almost exclusively supplying
their own regions of the Zollverein, they are by far the largest
producers for the middle and lower classes in such countries
as Russia, Italy, Spain, and others, which buy almost all
the buttons they consume. In England and France they divide
with the native manufacturers the local requirements, and
export enormously to the United States and other distant regions.
When goods, however, are produced at almost unreasonably low
prices, capital is not so quickly accumulated or fortunes
made, and we do not hear of more than moderate wealth among
the button makers of Germany even in the most favourable cases.
Their manufactories are seldom on a large scale or their machinery
very perfect, but they have a number of makeshift ways of
producing sufficiently good results without involving much
outlay.
The number of persons employed in the Elberfeld district must
be greater than in Birmingham, but probably not so great as
in France, and their earnings would no doubt be smaller than
those obtained in either, probably about on a par with those
in the country districts of France. In Bohemia, where all
the glass buttons are made, they must be much lower still;
yet it is not simply in the price of labour that the Germans
have an advantage over manufacturers elsewhere. They may fairly
claim the merit of exercising that kind of ingenuity in the
highest degree whose aim is to produce the cheapest possible
article with the best possible appearance, and in outstripping
all rivals in this particular way they have also exhibited
as much taste as circumstances would permit. This, however,
applies almost exclusively to light fancy goods; in most plain
and heavier articles, such as brace buttons, ivory buttons,
and others again, where perfection of tools and workmanship
is of first importance, as in bone buttons, the better kinds
of uniform buttons, &c., they do not succeed so well.
On the whole, we find them formidable rivals, and have as
much to learn from them in one way as they from us in another.
My aim has been throughout this essay to give a popular and
readable account of the button trade, without introducing
technicalities, or even attempting any description of processes,
and which would moreover involve details quite incomprehensible
to general readers and which, however interesting to see,
cannot be made so in description, those who wish to know more
on such points may pay a visit to some of our workshops, and
if they take a genuine interest in such matters, will readily
find opportunities for gratifying their curiosity.
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[Horn or Hoof buttons were made in Birmingham
more than eighty years ago, and are referred to in a curious
description of the Birmingham Manufactures in 1780 (which
is prefixed to the “Birmingham Directory” of
that date), and is valuable as a contemporary account:—“It
would be no easy task to enumerate the infinite diversity
of Buttons manufactured here: it may be sufficient to
observe that those made of gold, silver, steel, pearl,
paper, &c., are universally allowed to excel the produce
of any other place in this kingdom; and are it must be
admitted finished with all the richness and splendour
of which they are capable ... |
There is one sort of button which
on account of its having been produced by an artist of eminence
in this town deserves particular attention. It is that which
is inlaid with divers other metals: was first attempted about
20 years ago: and then, though in no respect so complete as
at present met with great and merited encouragement. Button
making like many other arts was originally a very tedious
and expensive process. The Button consisted of one solid piece
of metal: and the ornaments upon the face of it were the work
of an engraver. To give despatch to the execution of this
manufacture and to render it more advantageous to the manufacturer,
various instruments were invented, some of which were either
solely produced or greatly improved by Birmingham artists.
Among others the Press, and Stamp, and the Engine for turning
the mould, deservedly ought to be mentioned. The first gives
the form to the Button, and the second the objects represented
thereupon: but the Engine, which was the invention of a man
of great mechanical knowledge, was perhaps not the least acquisition
of the three. An inconceivable despatch was introduced: and
the formation of the mould was now effected with surprising
ease and expedition: but what most enhanced the importance
of the discovery was, that the bones and hoofs of beasts,
which till this period had been thought articles of little
or no value, became articles of great consequence in the manufacture
of Buttons, and were imported into this kingdom in large quantities
from Ireland and other places.”]—EDITOR.
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